Rediscovering Japan

Travel (Katsuura (Chiba))

by tomizuta

In early March 2023, the display of Hina dolls at the Tomisaki Shinto Shrine in Katsuura was held for the first time in four years, attracting a lot of visitors to the City. 

Katsuura City in Chiba Prefecture is located on the south eastern edge of the Boso Peninsular facing the Pacific Ocean. I had long wanted to visit Katsuura in March during their Hinamasuri Festival (for information on Hinamatsuri customs, please click here). In early 2023 the pandemic had clearly started to ebb, and in early March I visited the city to view their Hina dolls display, which was being held for the first time in four years. We went by car from the Tokyo area, which is more than 120 kilometers from Central Tokyo. We arrived at the city center area around 2pm in the afternoon, and went to one of their designated parking place for visitors. Although it was a week day, we were told that the designated car parks were all full, and were redirected to a car park at the seafront. From there it was a fifteen minutes' walk to the main Hina doll display at the Tomisaki Shinto Shrine..

There are three main display areas of Hina dolls. We came across the first display at the corner of a crossroad as we approached the main display at Tomisaki Shinto Shrine. The road at the far end leads to JR Katsuura Station.

There are three main display areas of Hina dolls. We came across the first display at the corner of a crossroad as we approached the main display at Tomisaki Shinto Shrine. The morning rain had let up, and it was sunny though windy as well.

A closer look of the display.

We went through the shopping district toward the main display at Tomisaki Shinto Shrine. All the shops were participating in the festival, and were displaying there own hina dolls, some of which were of particular interest to me. One was a display of a goninbayashi. This is a group of five performers providing musical accompaniment at festivals and theatres. There is a typical order of displaying hina dolls in the household. The bride and groom would be placed on the top row. A group of three lady servants went on the second row, and the five performers on the third. There was an intesting display of a goninbayashi set in a rice merchant's store..

"The feast of the goninbayashi" entertaining themselves around a table displayed in a rice merchant's shop (upper left) and caricature dolls of TV celebrities created by a former Tokyo store manager found in another shop on the opposite side of the road (lower left). Even a post box had a hina doll on top (right)

We reached the main display at Tomisaki Shinto Shrine. Unfortunately the grand display of over 1,500 dolls had been called off due to strong winds. and a replica screen was on display. I understand that volunteers from the shops display the dolls in early morning and take them off in the evening, which I thought must be a phenomenal task. We left the shrine hoping for better luck on the following morning.

Unfortunately the grand display of over 1,500 dolls had been called off due to strong winds. and a replica screen was on display.

We went to the third display area, Kakuoji Temple of the Jodo Buddhism sect. Here, I need to explain a bit about Katsuura City. People had settled here by the middle of the Jomon period (circa. 5000 B.C.), but was a desolate area until it started to see some development as a fishing and shipping port facing the Pacific Ocean. It became an independent feudal domain of the Uemura Family in the late 17th century. Kakuoji Temple was founded and served as the Katsuura Uemura Family's burial temple. The display was by the entrance gate to the temple.

The hina doll display at Kakuoji Temple of the Jodo Buddhism sect. The ornaments at the bottom are called "odogu" and are miniature pieces of ornaments used at weddings of noble people and the brides dowry as well as an oxcart to carry it.

On our way back to the car park,I noticed a rather aged and tired-looking property. This I found to be Matsunoya, the oldest ryokan in Katsuura, run by a family since the 19th century. The current building was built 100 years ago and continues its ryokan business. The building has been designated as a registered tangible cultural property.

Matsunoya, the oldest ryokan in Katsuura, run by a family since the 19th century.The building built 100 years ago has been designated as a registered tangible cultural property.

Attracted by their welcome sign prompting travelers to view their hina display, I went into their entrance area. Here I was intrigued by their marvelous collection of hina dolls dating back to the 19th century. The interior of the ryokan was much grander than would be expected from the building exterior.

The sightseeing map we found in the car park.

Luckily, the following day was a fine day. We revisited Tomisaki Shinto Shrine. The dolls were on display, and although it was early in the morning the display area was already packed with visitors. It certainly is amazing how they display so many dolls on the steps leading up to the shrine.

Although it was still early in the morning, the display area was already packed with visitors.

Katsuura is also famous for its so-called morning market (asaichi). I understand it is a tradition from the late 16th century. The shops participate as well as the numerous street vendors that bring their fruit and vegetables, or dried fish to the streets. Excuse me if I am wrong, but I get the feel that the size and hustle-bustle of the market is unfortunately in the decline. Still, I was happy with this short excursion on the occasion of the Hinamatsuri event.

View of the stalls (left) and a picture of the fresh fruit and vegetables they offer (right)